Where to Stay in Kyoto

The question we're asked most often about Japan is *where to stay in Kyoto*. It's a fair question — the city has more excellent hotels per square kilometre than almost any other in Asia, and the difference between a good one and a great one is enormous. Kyoto is not a city to walk in the middle of the afternoon. It is a city to wake up in, walk before breakfast, retreat from at midday, and re-enter at dusk. Which means where you sleep dictates everything.

Below is our honest working list of the properties we book most, and why.

**Higashiyama (east side).** The most-photographed part of Kyoto — Gion, Kiyomizu-dera, Yasaka Shrine, Kōdai-ji temple. Cobblestone streets, machiya townhouses, geisha corridors. This is where most romantic honeymoons stay. Downside: it can be crowded by 10am.

**Kamigyo / Nishijin (near the Imperial Palace).** Quieter, more residential, close to Nijo Castle and the Golden Pavilion. This is where the locals live, and it's ideal for a second visit to Kyoto.

**Arashiyama (western edge).** Bamboo groves, the Hozu River, monkey park. Beautiful for a night or two but 30 minutes from central Kyoto — pair it with Higashiyama, don't base yourself there.

**Downtown (Karasuma / Kyoto Station).** Convenient for shinkansen arrivals and access to Osaka. Modern. Comfortable. Not particularly *Kyoto*.

**Aman Kyoto** — Set in a hidden forest on the northern edge of the city, walking distance from Kinkaku-ji. Not central. That's the point. Wake with birds, walk the private moss garden, take the car south into the city when you're ready. **From ~$3,800/night.** Perfect for two or three nights of genuine retreat.

**Hoshinoya Kyoto** — Only accessible by private boat up the Ōi River. A restored inn with 25 rooms, no children under 13, and one of the finest kaiseki dinners in the country. **From ~$2,800/night.** For the couple who wants Kyoto's soul without its crowds.

**The Four Seasons Kyoto** — City-central, near Sanjūsangen-dō. Has its own 800-year-old pond garden. Wonderful for families and multi-generational trips. **From ~$2,200/night.**

**The Ritz-Carlton Kyoto** — On the Kamo River, downtown, walkable to everything. Modernist Japanese design, exceptional breakfast, arguably the best hotel bar in the city. **From ~$1,800/night.**

**Sowaka** — Boutique 23-room ryokan in the geisha district of Gion. Traditional but small. Fabulous location. **From ~$1,600/night.**

**Nishijin machiya (private townhouse rental)** — A 100–200-year-old restored merchant's house, entire building to yourselves, private cypress bath, daily housekeeping. **From ~$800/night**, though the best go From~ $1,500–$2,500. Our favourite option for couples who want Kyoto without a reception desk between them and the city.

If it's your first visit to Kyoto and you have three or four nights, we usually recommend **two nights at a machiya in Higashiyama, then two nights at Aman Kyoto** — the city, then the retreat. If you have only two nights, **Sowaka or Four Seasons**. If it's a milestone anniversary, **Hoshinoya Kyoto** every time.

One last note: Kyoto's best hotels sell out for cherry blossom (late March to early April) and maple season (mid to late November) up to twelve months in advance. If you're travelling in those windows, we need to have the conversation early.